Ate bun bo nam bo for dinner tonight--just a bowl of rice noodles with bits of beef & vegetables & a few cilantro-like herbs, but what of bowl of noodles! The food stall, long & narrow like many Hanoi shops, is right next door to the hotel & has been there as long as I've been coming to Hanoi. Good food and a good place for observing the local scene--couples, young families, & tonight a gangster & his flunky. I knew he was a gangster because of the shiny black scoop-neck tee-shirt and the big scar across his cheek. Apparently, the semiotic signs that spell "gangster" are cross-cultural. The flunky did not eat & I swear he was there to carry the gangster's cigarettes. When the gangster left the young father sitting a little further up the long table said something disparaging to his wife and caught my eye. We shook our heads ruefully. What is the world coming to? The girls who wait tables--I think all the daughters of the family that owns the place--could teach those slackers at the Moca a thing or two.